Underwater Photography


I began with a Nikonos II in 1977 with a 35mm and a 28mm lens. My first housing was a Sea Tite housing in 1978 (made in Sydney by Barry Davies and Harry Hapgood). My camera of choice was Nikon F. I ended up owning quite a few over the next 15 years. You could drive a truck over them and they would still work. I had a 55mm Micro Nikkor, a 105mm Micro Nikkor close up and a 20mm Nokkor wide angle lens. I took this photo of a manta ray at Lady Musgrave Island in September 1977 on a 12 day camping trip with Russel De Groot and Gary Webster of Pro Dive. It is still one of my favorite photos.

I bought my second Sea Tite housing in 1989.

Currently, I use a Nikon D200, 60mm Micro Nikkor and 10 to 17 Tokina fish eye lens in a Nexus housing and two Inon 240Z strobes.

Underwater photography is a most challenging and rewarding passion. There is enormous satisfaction in capturing the incredible sea life on camera and being able to enjoy these images day after day.

Underwater photography has a lot to do with self discipline, dedication, being methodical to eliminate errors, developing successful habits ( a rigorous routine for setting up your gear and using it) and having creativity. Sometimes, you conjure up an underwater image straight out of your imagination and then go diving to bring it into reality.

Ultimately, it is really about the enjoyment you get from recording good pictures and some of your friends get to share as well..

All of the photos in this web site are mine.

Photoshop tips.

Any photographer who can use a digital camera on full manual as if it is a film camera, has a massive advantage. We can get the settings as close to perfect as possible using correct exposures. Mind you, it takes years of practice and thousands of photos to master light and exposures. It is not easy! Only one or two photos in this site are photoshopped. My advice to photographers would be to keep working on getting your settings right before you take the shot. Photoshopping is an easy fix that I avoid. I try to do my adjustments before I take the photo. A good yardstick is if you look at a photo in photoshop and find it hard to improve on, then that is ideal. Your exposures are spot on.

  Manta Ray